Teak for sale ~ Teak Wood for sale ~ Teak Lumber for sale
Teak - More Information Page
Teak from Costa Rica & Panama
Trinidad Teak mixed color - only small orders - almost sold out
new supply
Get a Quote email form here:
Include your ZIP CODE
Small Orders - OK !
(minimum $20.00 teak + labor & shipping 5 pounds = typical $38.00 -$45.00)
We have plenty of short stock.
We cut-to-order so we have many leftovers 1, 2, 3 , and 4 feet
We cut to order - Send in the form:
Teak mills up like most any wood; you can expect some defects (knots, pith, sap, crook, cracks, bark inclusions, etc.) It is the woodworker's craft to use the best wood and minimize any defects. You would expect the same as if it was oak, cherry, or maple wood. If you are buying whole rough boards, you should consider ordering some extra for waste allowance. If you are buying cut-to-order, your cuts will be selected as best as possible within the limits of the board you are buying. It helps if we know what your plan is to best utilize the teak. Every project has different requirements as to what is most important.
This wood is being sold "as is";
with no guarantee it is fit for any particular purpose.
This is good clean central american teak good one side, some with sapwood edges on the second side.
This load of teak has some cut to yield a full inch thick and some cut to yield 13/16 or 3/4 inch thick. The widths are full sized 4,5, and 6 inches.
Note about shipping 48" pieces:
FedEx charges for long packages start at over 48" = additional $15.00
If we cut to 47 inches and wrap in cardboard you can avoid the extra fee.
If we ship at 48 inches wrapped in cardboard (49 inches) the shipping is $15.00 additional. If you are ordering 4 foot lengths please advise if the shorter cuts are OK with you to save the added shipping fee.
All inventory is for sale.
Please read below about gluing-up wide widths,
fixing cracks, making boards longer, and teak color.
Please read all the way down;
there is lots of information on this page...
Final remaining inventory of Asian teak listed here:
https://www.woodshop102.com/51.html
Teak Lumber
(Tectona Grandis)
Available as rough lumber in whole pieces
or as, CUT-TO-ORDER Teak. Please e-mail your requirements or cut list and your ZIPCODE, we will send you a quote including shipping fees.
If you like the quote, we send you an invoice by PayPal. When it is paid, we pack and ship your order by FedEx ground. You will get tracking info by email from FedEx.
Pricing is by the board foot: Quantities are limited.
It is good for many wood projects around the boat or home such as cabinets, trim mouldings, and furniture.
THICKNESS is all 4/4 roughsawn (1 inch rough); planes out smooth at 3/4, or better at 13/16, or 7/8 in some pieces.
WIDTHS are roughly exactly at their numbers without any extra. So a rough 6 inch width will finish out at less than 6 wide, (5&1/2") for example. If you require a full 6 inch finished width, you should order 7" wide, for example, to allow for edging and jointing straight.
LENGHTS are available up to 12 feet, however, we cannot ship by FedEx any longer than about 95.25 inches (under 8 feet) or combined length and girth of more than 130 inches. Orders of long lengths will go out by freight truck, we will get you a quote. Customers are encouraged to order shorter cuts to save freight charges.
WoodShop102 will plane, rip, and chop your teak to size for a minimal labor charge and save you some shipping fees, and the time it would take you to do the cutting.
If you have a wood working shop and the tools needed, then you will save on whole boards.
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The plantation teakwood was sustainably harvested from a plantation, it is not old growth teak from the rain forests. Therefore, it does have wider growth rings and a few knots, Some pieces will have some sapwood edges or ends, if you are buying whole uncut rough pieces. If you are buying cut-to-order we will be cutting around any really bad defects. The smaller the size pieces you order the better the chance of clear wood; if you order large full size boards you will find some knots and sapwood in most pieces.
Plantation teak has gotten a bad name from some sales of plantation "thinnings". When the tree farm culls out the smaller underperforming trees to allow growth of the more dominant trees. These "thinnings" are often sold as flooring or decking material and may contain
50 to 60 % sapwood. This teak is not from thinnings; it is 90% good heartwood from mature Tectona Grandis trees!
It is real teak, (Tectona Grandis).
It can be used in any way that teak is normally used.
Do do now also offer First European Quality (FEQ Grade) Asian teak (Burmese)
It is perfect teak; the besy money can buy!
Teak Pricing
To figure board feet (a cubic measure of quantity, not the same as lineal foot)
you multiply - in inches -
length x width x thickness and divide by 144.
There are 144 cu.in. in a board foot (ie.- 1 x 12" x 12" = 1 B.F.)
Length X Width X Thickness (in inches) ÷ 144 = Board Feet
Pricing: (cut to order or random widths and lengths)
Trinidad Natural teak - small trees, ungraded, run-of-the-mill boards - $20.00/bf
Panama and Costa Rica plantation teak - mixed color - ungraded - sold out
New supply of First European Quality graded Asian teak (FEQ Burmese)
No knots, pith, or sapwood, tight straight grain -
by longer, wider, and thicker pricing - $27.00 / bf and up
Priced by the size up to $32.00/ BF
Quick Quote Questionaire - Teak wood quote form
Teak wood - cut to order
WoodShop 102 offers full service shopwork: we can rip to width, chop to length, plane to thickness,
route edges, and glue up or build to your specifications - no problem, within reason.
There will be some nominal labor fees added to your order depending upon the time involved.
If we get backed up on the workload during the season, we may not be taking the
montrous projects some people ask for. You might have to hire a local woodworker to do the work.
Please have your guy call us for the teak you need.
We pack and ship by any carrier, anywhere in the United States, as far as you are willing to pay.
We do not export or ship internationally.
If your plans are not specific, we can roughly cut and plane, allowing you the finish cuts,
and allowing for easier more economical shipping costs.
Just tell us how you want it! Tell us what your tolerances are (plus or minus),
what your plans are, and what your skill level is; we'll be happy to help as far as we can.
Caution: If you do not ask for smooth surfacing, we will ship roughsawn. Figure about $0.50 per board foot, per 1/8 inch, extra for planer surfacing 2 sides and 1 edge. Planing will reduce your shipping weight. If your order is small we might not charge for the planing, but if you are buying a few boards we will add for the time it takes. Planing to 7/8 is .50/bf, to 3/4 is $1.00/ bf.; similar charges for 2 inch stock.
To clarify: A "roughsawn" board means it is as it was cut in the jungle by a dull bandsaw by some guys getting paid cheap wages. It means you do all the surfacing work. The 4/4 stock measures anywhere from 15/16 inch to 1 and 1/16 with about 1/8 inch variations as the saw waves up and down. You will need a planer to surface this wood or you will be spending a lot of time with a hand plane and a belt sander.
A 4/4 board (1 x) will not finish smooth at 1 inch. Depending on the particular board, some will finish at 7/8 one side good, and some will finish at 13/16, most will finish at 3/4" with 2 sides good. All of the 1 inch stock will finish for sure at 3/4 inch, at which thickness most people use it for cabinets and moulding trim. We will surface it all to the same thickness as the least board finishes, unless you order it rough or minimum planing.
For the 2 inch stock (8/4) the same is true. You do not get a full 2 inches finished out of a 2 inch board. You get 1&7/8 or 1&3/4. That's just the way it is in the lumber business. You are paying for what the wood was before it is dried out, sawed, and planed smooth. Think about it like buying a 2x4; you end up with 1&1/2 x 3&1/2; the missing part turned to sawdust and planer shavings. When buying hardwoods you do a little better than the nominal sizes of construction grade woods but it goes by the same idea.
If you ask for certain dimensions, we will cut the teak and plane it with sharp carbide blades, we ship without sanding. You will need to finish the piece by sanding. This is not considered "roughsawn". This is dimensioned and "unfinished".
I hope this helps my non-woodworker customers understand what is what. If you still have questions or you just can't read this much, then please email or call the shop.
These are glued-up 12 inch wide panels; the joint is almost invisible, especially after finishing and mellowing the color.
How to fix a small crack or void
Sometimes a piece of wood will get a small crack at the end from shipping damage or from a rapid climate change. This is called end checking. Normally the wood is sealed at the ends to prevent excess moisture loss and a woodworker would allow the wood to aclimatize before using it, or the wood is purchased longer than needed and then trimmed for the job. If a crack occurs, it does not mean that the wood will continue to split or "fall apart" as non-woodworkers would think. It is a trivial thing and it takes just a few minutes to fix.
To fix a crack, push a chisel or screwdriver into the end crack gently, just to open it a bit, not hard enough to make it worse. Then using your finger or putty knife push glue into the crack from both sides. Remove the chisel or screwdriver and clamp the piece for several hours, then sand and finish as usual. Do not wipe the glue off with a wet rag before it sets since this will dilute the glue. If there is a void remaining, or any spot that needs a little fill such as a tear out of grain at a knot, you can put wet glue in the spot and immediately sand with a sander. The sander will force fresh sanding dust into the wet glue and fill the spot with the correct color. Stop sanding and let the spot dry before any further finish sanding. Repeat if needed.
To fill any large spot, pith, or void, use two part epoxy glue mixed with sanding dust, putty knife it in, allow to dry, and sand the excess. Finish as usual; it will look like a dark spot or knot in the grain. This is common practice among woodworkers; we don't waste good wood; we patch it up and put it where it will not show as much.
Teak - How to glue up a wide board
After surface planing, the teak is pushed thru an edge jointer. This machine makes the edge straight and square so two or more pieces can be joined together to make wider stock. This is common practice among woodworkers; it is half of what we do - either glue-it-up or rip-it-down - woodworkers make pieces larger or smaller. A piece that is properly joined together long grain edge to long grain edge will be stronger than the wood itself at that joint. It will not "fall apart", as most non-woodworkers may think. When done properly, the finished joint will be nearly invisible to the untrained eye.
To glue two pieces together, a woodworker would use a biscuit jointer to insert compressed wooden "biscuits" into slots cut in the edges at matching spots. (use wooden dowels if you are old fashioned) These biscuits align the wood and swell up tightly when the moisture of the glue gets to them. The pieces are wet with a good woodworking glue, then clamped, and cross clamped, and left to set up. After setting of the glue, the piece is then sanded or finish planed again to remove the excess glue. I use Titebond II glue which is water resistant, or Titebond III which is waterproof. Cross clamping means that a straight edged scrap piece is clamped across the assembly to prevent the glue-clamps from cupping or twisting the piece. Clamping time for teak is extended to at least 4 hours, but usually overnight.
The final passes thru the thickness planer are reserved for after the assembly to make the excess glue removal faster and easier than sanding it off, and to make the finished joint perfectly flat.
If you do not own any clamps, you can either pay a woodworker a few minutes labor to make the joint, or you could try using ratcheting straps, or a string twisted tight with a stick (such as a tourniquet). Laying plastic wrap under the assemply will keep the glue from sticking to your table and buckets of water can be used as weights to keep it flat.
At WoodShop102, we offer clamping services up to sizes that are reasonable to ship. Clamping up two or three pieces that will fit through the planer is relatively inexpensive. Clamping multiple pieces and longer lengths is more time consuming and in some cases may not be feasible for shipping.
How to make a board longer
During the course of building a boat, or in the case of needing longer lumber than is available for shipping the answer to this problem is the scarf joint. A properly done scarf joint is a long narrow angle cut thru the thickness of the wood along the length of the grain in a ratio of at least 8 inches to one inch of thickness. Most often 10 to 1, or 12 to 1 is the commonly used ratio. When glued together the area of the glue joint is so great that it becomes as strong as the rest of the board. Scarf joint can be cut with any saw and finished with a belt sander or plane. For small stock, I most often use a japanese pull saw and touch up with a 4" disk grinder. For larger stock, I use a band saw and a belt sander. Epoxy glue and clamps are used, sanding to finish after the glue has set. There are many pictures and directions available on the internet; but remember the simple scarf joint is not a miter, half-lap, notched scarf, stopped scarf, or other nonsense. It is just a long angular lap. The epoxy, mixed with sanding dust, will fill any gaps. clamping both ways prevents slipping while assembling.
a scarf joint is 8 to 12 times longer than the thickness being used.
The longer scarf joint is stronger.
Teak Grading - Marine Teak?
People have been asking me, "Is this marine grade teak?" The answer is: the NLGA (National Hardwood Lumber Association) does not list such a thing as "marine" grade. Read about lumber grading rules here: http://www.natlhardwood.org/illustrated_guide/IllustratedGradingGuide.pdf
. There are grades of FEQ (First European Quality), FAS (Firsts and Seconds), Select (FAS-one side), #1 Common, and #2 Common. So I suppose, if you use this Trinidad or plantation teak on a boat then it could be called marine teak, but what this is really is run-of-the-mill ungraded teak. You will get some knots in some boards and wider growth rings.
If you really want the good FEQ grade teak - we have it! It has no knots, no pith, no sapwood and tight straight grain as from old growth trees. FEQ graded teak is the best teak you can buy.
We are now stocking it because people have been asking for it and want it!
For teak order questions and quotes:
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E-mail: WoodShop102@bellsouth.net anytime.
Please include your ZIPCODE if you want a shipping quote.
About teak COLOR:
For more pricing information, board foot calculations, sold-out sizes, and gross shipping estimates -
Go to: Pricing Estimator Page, or just call the shop 305-453-0102 most weekdays 9Am to 4PM EST
